Cuba Delegation—February 2002 Report and Itinerary Delegation Leader: Helen Free Participants: Katherine Heffernan, Kathleen Hunt, Robin Winter Odem, Joan Poulos, Joan Westgate Report written by the delegation and compiled by Kathleen Hunt Introduction | Itinerary A Week in Cuba | History | Economics Today Education | Medical Care | Population | Religion | Culture | Women Final Impressions Introduction by Helen Free, Delegation Leader Preparation for an AWIU delegation can often take up to one year before travel time. I began planning this trip when I returned from a trip to Cuba in February 2001 with another organization. This delegation had several unusual elements to consider. First of all we had to obtain a license from the United States Department of the Treasury permitting us to travel legally to Cuba. The game of United States citizens sneaking through a second country is against the embargo provisions, which are being enforced. I am told that the minimum fine for illegal travel to Cuba is $7,500. Secondly, some of our members made a decision not to travel after the tragic events of September 11, 2001. And thirdly, we were going to a Communist country where we needed connections and diplomacy in order to meet with either government people or regular citizens. Lastly, one cannot use just any travel agent or airline to make the air travel arrangements to Cuba. In fact my travel agent was told if she wrote a ticket for Cuba, she could be arrested. Consequently, we used Cuba Travel Service in Los Angeles and had to supply them with documentation and make many phone calls. They were helpful. We used an American woman who was living in Cuba, studying at the University of Havana, and accompanying legal American tour groups in country, to facilitate our license application (as she was familiar with the bureaucracy). Now AWIU has a license to travel to Cuba, which expires December 11, 2002. While there is no fee charged by the Department of the Treasury for the license, we did pay our consultant - next time we can do it ourselves. I developed three pages of travel tips based on an accumulation of experiences of many travelers, which was very helpful to our delegation. We were able to utilize my acquaintanceship with Vicki Huddleston, Chief of the United States Interest Section (reads like embassy) for a luncheon at her official residence. One cannot rent a bus or van and travel outside the City of Havana without paying for a Cuban tour guide (even if you have a Spanish speaking person in your group). In the end we used two agencies, Havana Tours and Cubalinda. Incidentally, we met the owner of Cubalinda, Philip Agee, an ex CIA agent who wrote a very controversial expose book giving the names of double agents working for the United States in Central and Latin America in the l970s. He is now a good friend of Fidel Castro. In retrospect, I would recommend travel from Miami instead of Los Angeles, as the flight is only one hour. The 5-6 hour flight from Los Angeles on Taca Airlines is at best, uncomfortable. ?? Back to top A Week in Cuba “We were young; we just wanted social justice”, commented one of the most talented women we were lucky enough to meet. “We didn’t know what it would cost us,” she wryly added as she hospitably served us cafe Cubano and lovely cookies. This, the reflection of most of the older Cubans with whom we talked, serves to describe the theme of Castro’s Cuba today. Cuba, the largest of the Caribbean islands, ninety-one miles south of Florida, was the destination of six AWIU members in February 2002 where we spent five full days in Havana and one day in Cienfuegos and Trinidad. Our impressions and experiences are focused primarily on Havana, reputed to be the most splendid and sumptuous of all the capital cities of the Caribbean.? Romantically described, the buildings are crumbling with tropical abandon; the whole island has the ramshackle glamour of an abandoned stage set. A more graphic impression was one of shock - Havana along the Malecon (sea-front drive) looked like a bombed out site. To better understand the Cuba of today, it would be well to review her history. Back to top History Christopher Columbus, who visited Cuba during his first voyage in 1492, noted the Indians' practice of puffing at a large, burning roll of leaves, which they called "tobaccos". With the Spanish colonial takeover, the indigenous people were killed. The first African slaves were imported to Cuba in 1526. Sugar was introduced soon after; the coffee plant was introduced in 1748. Towards the end of the 18th century, Cuba became a slave plantation society. By the 1860s, Cuba was producing about one third of the world's sugar and was heavily dependent on slaves to do so, supplemented by indentured Chinese laborers. Independence from Spain became a burning issue as Spain refused to consider political reforms which would give the colony more autonomy. After one failed attempt at independence, US interests began to take over the sugar plantations and the sugar mills; Cuba became more dependent on the US market.? From 1895 to 1898 rebellion again flared up under the young poet and revolutionary, Jose Marti, who became a national hero. The US was now concerned for its investment and its strategic interests. When the US battleship Maine exploded in the Havana harbor in 1898 killing 260 crew, the US declared war on Spain. The US flag flew over Cuba until 1902, when the Republic of Cuba was proclaimed. After the repeal of the Platt Amendment in 1943 which made Cuba a protectorate of the US, the US formally relinquished the right to intervene, but retained its naval base at Guantanamo. Sergeant Fulgencio Batista deposed the existing government in 1933. Corruption became increasingly rampant in the ensuing years. Cuba's economy was dependent on the US. Their biggest cash crop was sugar and Americans owned 9 of the 10 large sugar mills. Americans set prices, set import/export quotas and taxes, made and owned the machinery and provided the administrative personnel. The 1950s were probably the hey-days of Havana. It had everything - glamour, great climate, excellent food and an incredible nightlife. Gambling casinos were open 24 hours, nightclub shows were spectacular and sex was a big drawing card complete with "los exhibiciones" - live sex shows. The mob ran the casinos and Batista ran Cuba. During the 1930s, when Batista was first in power, gangster Meyer Lansky told Mafia boss Lucky Luciano that he had Batista in his pocket, "whether he's president or whether he puts somebody else in, he belongs to us. I'm handling the transfer to his account in Switzerland." On New Year's Eve, l958 came the revolution. Cubans were mostly very rich "haves" and starving "have-nots". Considering how long Cubans had other powers running their affairs, with deep poverty, hunger (in 1950 the World Bank reported 40% urban dwellers and 60% country folk were undernourished) and incredible corruption, it is no wonder that they supported a revolution. Castro said before his revolution was accomplished, "the old has been here so long that the new must make radical changes in order to function at all." Castro's government nationalized over half of privately owned land, so leadership, for which they were not trained, was ineffective. The year 1961 was the year of the Bay of Pigs invasion, a fiasco that was to harden Castro's political persuasion. Some 1,400 Cuban &Mac246;©migr&Mac246;©s, trained by the CIA, landed in the Bahia de Cochinos. But the men were stranded on the beaches when the Cuban Air Force attacked their supply ships. Two hundred were killed and the rest surrendered within three days. In his May speech, Castro confirmed that the Cuban Revolution was socialist. The US reaction was to isolate Cuba with a full trade embargo. With heavy American political pressure, Cuba was expelled from the Organization of American States and the OAS imposed economic sanctions. In 1961-62, the trade embargo hit hard, shortages soon appeared, rationing had to be imposed - the blow was so severe that the economy has never made a comeback. During the second decade of the Revolution, Cuba became firmly entrenched as a member of the Soviet bloc. The Revolution was institutionalized along Soviet lines and the Party gained control. By the 1980s, the heavy dependence on sugar and the USSR, coupled with the trade embargo, meant that the expected improvements in living standards were not being delivered as fast as hoped and the people were tiring of being asked for ever more sacrifices. Castro allowed people a mass departure by sea. It was estimated that some 125,000 embarked for Miami. The collapse of the Communist system in Eastern Europe, followed by the demise of the USSR, brought more economic crisis to Cuba. During the early 1990s, the Special Period occurred, which was a time of belt tightening and economic liberalization. In 1993, the US dollar was legalized. Cuba was at its lowest ebb of hardship and hunger. People were starving and Castro had to do something about it. He made tourism and hotels for tourists more attractive, made new fleets of taxis, allowed people to rent out rooms and open "paladores", homes with a 12-seat restaurant. At the same time, selling cigars on the black market increased and sex became easily available. In 1994, people rioted and Castro allowed another exodus of 30,000 to leave the country. Most of the professionals had? already left in 1959 because low value had been placed on their skills; Cuba was faced with a "brain drain." Back to top ECONOMICS TODAY Cubans appear to be a happy people, determined to find a laugh to be shared, even though they may not have enough food in their kitchens for the next meal. They do receive rations, but all lament that the minimal rations are not enough to live on. Cubans have a ration book. Each family receives 6 pounds of rice, 3 pounds of split peas and 6 eggs a month. Food can only be bought at dollar shops, at markets or on the black market. Cubans are obsessed by food. They talk about it all the time, probably because they feel deprived or have been deprived due to shortages and lack of income. Their taste runs to meat and fried food; both meat and oil are very expensive. Interestingly, Cubans have not developed wartime habits. They do not grow or conserve vegetables, or grow herbs. Wages are frozen in pesos and goods are available only in dollars. There are shortages in food, medicine, clothes, fuel—sugar is the only available thing. Most Cubans seem to have some other way of survival—either working two jobs or by somehow participating in the “other” economy and having access to US dollars. There are definitely two (at least) economies. There is the ordinary citizen (where an average policeman makes $20.00 per month) and the tourist-serving worker, who benefits from tips in US dollars (based on inflated prices charged tourists.) But even those, whose livelihoods seem to us to be dependent upon tips, never seem to seek tips unduly. The bartender in the resort hotel of Trinidad, where the drinks were free—Club Med style—gave no indication that one who tipped would receive better service than the many who did not. Each patron was served with a smile and a joke—either in Spanish or English. This seemed true of waitresses at breakfast, although only in Spanish, and taxi-drivers that laughed with us in the little yellow bugs (scooters) that served as local taxis. There are several interesting consequences of this poverty economy. In agriculture, since there is insufficient money for fertilizers and pesticides, theirs is mostly organic growing. In the health field, the lack of medicines has been augmented by an active alternative medicine regime. And those beautiful, elegant Spanish-style buildings would have been torn down and replaced by “beautiful” modern style creations had there been funds. Housing is in an appalling state in Havana. It is advised that you walk in the middle of the street in Centro and southern Old Havana. Multiple families live in crumbling former mansions (Dr. Zhivago style) or in shells of old buildings; there are a few Russian-style apartment buildings. Cubans can't move easily and often there is no escape for them. They are tied to the address for the ration book, as it is allocated to the address, not the individual. Poor tenants receive alternate housing, at no cost, if their income is below a certain standard.? Cubans cannot buy or rent apartments or houses. There is a kind of “property” but in case you would like to sell the house you may have had since the revolution, you have to sell it back to the State. Of course we are talking legally since in the black market, many things can be done. What people usually do is to trade houses or apartments according to necessities and conditions both require. This is called? “permutar” in the Cuban language. The housing situation has created real suffering for many families. Pressure on human relations is enormous. No privacy, no escape from unbearable spouses/in-laws. It is common for divorced couples to go on living together. Transportation is a nightmare in Havana. Gas and maintenance are expensive. Since transportation is so poor (it is a haven for 50’s cars, repaired over and over again), there is an unwritten law that says if you have room in your vehicle, you must stop and give people a ride. Buses are few and queues are enormous. They have camellos (camel-shaped trucks), which carry 200–300 people and are to be avoided, as they can be unsafe and dangerous. There are many taxis, bikes, and coco taxis. Cubans have an aversion to walking and getting wet in the rain, so they tend to just wait for transportation. Back to top EDUCATION Education is free and available for everyone; nearly all children go to school. Children are presumed to have the right to attend schools near where they live. We saw schools from the outside. The children were typically cheerful and noisy; uniforms identify the level of school the child is to attend. Both boys and girls are educated. Primary school reportedly is adequate except for lack of supplies and new schoolbooks. Students also attend school in some of the museums, which exposes them to art history. But secondary schools present problems. Children are separated from their families and sent to boarding schools to work in the sugar cane fields. They attend classes for a half-day. The separation is emotionally difficult for the children. Our guide indicated they have a program of peer helpers who are trained to help with emotional/adjustment problems. Also, this is a time when many of the children become sexually active. After high school, students may apply to the University of Havana, which requires strict admission exams. For male students who pass the tests, they must complete a military obligation for one year before entering the University. For students not entering the University, they may choose to work, study in a technological field, or study to take the exams again. If they fail again, they have to spend additional time in the military, eventually attending a military high school to prepare them for the exams. The University of Havana has 3 million students and is heavily attended by women.? There are branches all over the city, each specializing in a particular field. Our guide spoke of a Social Service commitment after finishing the University. When students are in their fifth year, professors analyze each student's marks, aptitude, etc. and taking into account the capacities and the requests that have been made for different institutions, ministries, enterprises, factories, they make a roll of the students. For two years, a student has to do Social Service, depending on the roll. Students don't always get what they want. There are three institutions that have priority selection - the Ministries of Interior, Army and Tourism. The better students are selected to do social service at these places. For medical students, it is more or less the same procedure, though they have six years to serve and the priorities are in the countryside. There is a joke among the medical students that says, "the higher the marks, the higher the mountains". Motivation is a problem among the young people. Higher education does not mean getting jobs or making a commensurate salary. A bellhop or someone in a comparable job can make more money than a doctor or engineer. Truancy is a problem. Scrambling for dollars from tourists, engaging in prostitution, luring people into restaurants or bars may seem preferable to attending school. A "rip-off" culture is developing. Back to top MEDICAL CARE Our guide said that 250 more hospitals/clinics have been built since the Revolution. At risk pregnant women in Havana are brought to the maternity hospital, fed and cared for so that their babies will have a better chance. Immunizations are strongly encouraged and the percent immunized is high. Contraceptives are also strongly promoted, with the primary method, the intrauterine device. At the airport returning home, several of our group spoke with two physicians from California who had been providing volunteer services in Cuba. They had served in a village and described the conditions as deplorable. They brought suitcases of medicines to help out. They said the hospitals were devoid of resources - they were only buildings, not medical centers. Back to top POPULATION The population of Cuba is 11–12 million of which the racial make up is 51% mulatto, 37% white, 11% black and 1% Chinese. Skin color is an issue, although our interpreter assured us that race was not a big issue in Cuba - that they had inter-married and amalgamated into a homogenous “broth”. Nevertheless, there is “defacto racism”. The darker the skin, the worse the housing and less access to dollar jobs. Young black women can be economically powerful by engaging in prostitution. Back to top RELIGION Religion is interesting. Catholicism came with the Spaniards. Since the Pope’s visit in 1998, there has been a surge of interest and activity in the Catholic Church. But the million plus black slaves came with African ways and a religion called Santeria, whose ways seem voodoo. They use animal sacrifices. A high priest is called a babalawo. The priests tried to convert these slaves to Catholicism, but not too successfully. The Africans learned to appease the priests by giving Catholic saints their own spirits and then they worshipped them. They use dressed-up dolls, flags and mysterious stick-filled black iron kettles, some with stones. These were the vessels of the spirits, the orishas. Chango is a popular orish, as is Yemaya, the ocean orisha who loves blue. We saw a room with a black doll dressed in bright blue. If you have a problem you go to a babalawo who may sacrifice many live animals for divination. People pay high prices who want their problems to be “divined” away. These practices are very much alive today. Back to top CULTURE Cuba is one of the most sexually liberated countries in the world; free sexual attitudes still prevail. Even the “Bearded One” had (has?) a girlfriend and daughter by his girlfriend, in addition to his wife. Sex is taught early. It is, however, a promiscuous society and sex activity begins early, helped by working in the fields; they are notorious sexual experimentation grounds. Girls are sexually active at age 13, boys at 15. Condoms are available, but they are cumbersome Chinese imports. Abortion is a contraception method. Many girls have 4-5 abortions by the time they are 20. The government recently expressed concern about this practice. Cubans seemed to be a very family-oriented people, who cherish their extended families. Of the children today, 35% are under 16 years old. Children are adored and it is rare to see a child cry or parents lose their tempers. The children appear bright eyed and turned out nicely in their school uniforms. But the city is facing a problem of disaffected youth. Born in the 80s, they know nothing of the Revolution. They see that the system denies them the cultural icons they long for. They are asked to live on tiny peso wages, pay out in dollars, praise free medical services but buy medicines on the black market, despise capitalism but watch capitalists pass through town, deride the US government when most of them have family in the US and long to join them. The Elian hysteria, though, has had a lot to do with recalling children back into the ideological fold. Most Cubans have experienced the rupture of their families. The overthrow of Batista carried a heavy price, even for those who “won.” To see whole branches cut off, either by death or by emigration, is a constant sadness.? Some of our problems are definitely not shared by Cubans. We, with our diverse immigrant groups (and sometimes gangs) are much more impacted by the racial/ethnic/cultural diversities than Cuba. As one woman said, “Immigration is NOT our problem. It is Emigration.” They quietly agree that human rights is a big issue. Fear of the Committee for Defense of the Revolution is legion. Reports to them of any socially deviant or liberal thinking person on the block can occur. There is usually some payoff for the person reporting and the possibility of imprisonment for the one reported. Music is everywhere. It seems to be the outlet of spirit in a people constricted in so much of their life. All is happy, fiesta-like music played in a trio of guitars. An exception was in our Hostal Los Frailes (Franciscan Friars) where a trio of clarinets played “Ave Maria” reverently in the lobby (among other selections.) Leisure time revolves around home and the street, which becomes an extension of the living room in the daytime. People sit on their steps talking and gossiping. Men play dominos and children play baseball, their national sport. News is carefully restricted in their few newspapers; the Granma International is their major paper. Cubans are distressed about the lack of soap and water and about power outages. They will form long queues to buy artificial flowers for their homes. Most homes have little dogs. They have TVs, but only two channels. The popular soap opera comes on twice a week. They have late night movies, no CNN or news. There is CNN in the tourist hotels, bars and places where tourists frequent. However, Cubans are not allowed in these places unless they work there. There is a plethora of museums; many mansions have been turned into museums of all sorts, past and present. Surprisingly, we did not see billboards with “Big Brother/Father Castro”. We did see Che Guevera looking at us from atop buildings, along the roadside and on magazine covers. For girls, the fifteenth birthday is her coming out as a woman, a sex object to the world. Parties and celebrations are common. There is a lot of interest in personal appearance and clothing. The beauty business is thriving. We saw several beauty salons in old Havana. Nothing will prevent women from having their hair and nails done.?? Back to top WOMEN The Revolution raised women to fully equal, legal and economic status. They have a Family Code where men must participate equally in housework. Women have one full year of maternity leave. Yet, Cuba is still “machismo”, male dominated. Throughout our trip we met competent, socially conscious women. Most were proud of the changes their country had made. There are many women doctors, dentists and academics. We met architects and writers. We saw women taxi drivers, waitresses and symphony conductors. We saw no woman in any of the bands that regale tourists at every restaurant and hotel. The young teacher we met in a restaurant, the young law student who was our most capable guide, the new mother who allowed us to come to her home—all expressed concerns for the health and welfare of their fellow citizens—and concern about the future of their country. Back to top ITINERARY Day One Our travelers from Illinois arrived in Havana, via Miami and from Southern California directly from LAX. We dined near our Hostal Los Frailes, a former Franciscan monastery, and enjoyed our first "mojitos", the drink made famous by Ernest Hemingway. Day Two We met with Isabel Rigol, Professor of History and Architecture at the University of Havana in our hotel lobby for a briefing followed by a tour of Colon Cemetery. Marble statues and tombs filled this huge, decaying burial site of aristocracy and heroes.? Isabel told us about the romantic background of Friendship House where we enjoyed lunch. Her husband built this home for Catrina Laza.? They were each married and had children when they first met and fell in love, creating a great scandal, marriage to each other and tender love story. We drove by the large Plaza erected for the Elian Gonzalez protests. It is an imposing, defiant structure with three huge arches, a thousand chairs, a stage, and lights - all placed in front of the US Interests Section office (formerly called the American Embassy.) We were told that a million dollars was spent on the construction of the Plaza - money better spent on the needs of the people - but obviously great publicity for Fidel Castro and the Revolution. Planes and military equipment used during the Bay of Pigs were on display in a park, in the center of which is located the boat Granma, used by Fidel, Raul and Che with 80 companions, to land in Cuba and launch their Revolution. Following a visit to the home of artists Alicia Leal and Juan Moriera, where Robin purchased two serigraphs, we met Margarita Madan, Professor of Art History at the University of Havana. She toured us through the National Museum of Art, containing beautiful and extensive Cuban art, ("bellas artes.") In the evening we saw a ballet; as we were awaiting our tickets, a famous ballerina, now blind, entered to much applause and adoration. Day Three We toured Old Havana with Orestes del Castillo, a captivatingly charming well-known architect, white hair, tanned, early 60s and walked from square to square (there were 5) where we saw the crumbling to the elegantly restored buildings. UNESCO has designated Old Havana and a city on the southern seacoast, Trinidad, as National Treasures, World Sites. These cities receive monies to restore the old that is decaying and falling down. It is a slow process because the money comes in small amounts and slowly. Each square was planned to provide housing, cafes, services such as laundry, bakery, health clinic, expensive apartments as rentals to rich visitors, an entertainment facility - perhaps a movie house or theater. Sr.Castillo was greeted by scores of people as we toured, lending a certain prestige not only to him, but also to his work of restoring dignity to these aging edifices. Other interesting places we visited on our tour included gardens dedicated to Princess Diana and Mother Theresa and the Hostel Habana, where patrons can smoke anywhere and where the photographs of many famous guests hung in the courtyard - including Winston Churchill, Orson Wells, Groucho Marx, Nat King Cole, Michael Douglas and Demi Moore. We visited Marti, Director of Alternative Medicine, and her newborn son in her humble 2 room home; during our visit a visiting nurse and a social worker with two assistants visited - services routinely offered to new mothers and babies include follow up care, the provision of immunizations, problem assessment and referral to community resources - especially interesting to three of our AWIU members, two with social work and one with public health nursing backgrounds. In the evening we visited the famous Tropicana - established in 1939 - featuring glorious (and revealing) costumes, dancing and acrobats, a female orchestra leader and a lovely outdoor, balmy atmosphere under a full moon. Day Four During our continued walking tour of Old Havana we were introduced to a friend of Sr. Castillo, Ms. Romero, who was walking in the square, and who invited us to attend a practice of her orchestra which we accepted for our last day in Havana. At the completion of our tour and a lovely "tapas" lunch, several of our group boarded a ferry, packed to capacity with passengers and bicycles, and visited Island Regla. A center for Santeria, the blending of Spanish Catholic and African religions, displayed a black Madonna statue. Cocktails at the famous Hotel National was an evening delight. Day Five Our first luncheon hosted by AWIU was at the parador (a lovely home whose dining room now serves as a restaurant), Le Chansonnier in Vedago, owned and operated by Hector, a friend of our local guide. Seven women were invited to share a most creative and delicious lunch and engage in a dialogue about the changing roles of women in Cuba. There were three white and four black women - among them an author, one in TV production (about AIDS), two architects, and a psychologist (Ph.D.) who had been in the military for 25 years. Helen Free spoke eloquently about our purpose in promoting international understanding after which each of us gave a brief presentation about ourselves. Throughout the story telling, we were impressed that despite the report from our translator that Cuba is a homogeneous "broth", the African-featured guests, through their body language and narratives, indicated that discrimination still very much exists. Following a visit to the Museum of Decorative Arts, formerly a lovely private residence, we visited the artist, Margarita Madan, in her lovely home and toured her art collection. She served coffee in Hungarian demitasse china and talked about her former husband, an ambassador to Yugoslavia, her background as a diplomat and her participation in the Revolution in which she fought. Day Six We attended the rehearsal of Ms. Romero's orchestra, held in a large cathedral. There were seven women in the symphony who played beautifully as they prepared for their concert tour in North Carolina. In a previous visit to the U.S. in Santa Barbara, the conductor started with fifteen musicians, but returned with only thirteen. It was not so much the loss of her artists, she lamented, as the loss of the irreplaceable instruments. Our formal invitation to the American Embassy residence of Vicki Huddleston, Principal Officer of US Interests Section in Havana, was a special highlight of our trip. Although she does not bear the title of Ambassador due to the US's lack of diplomatic relations with Cuba, Mrs. Huddleston served as a gracious State Department hostess. There were three other women ambassadors present—from Sweden, Holland and Belize—staff personnel from Vicki's office and other distinguished guests. The food and presentation were superb and the ambience lovely. The Embassy residence is breathtaking with Cuban art displayed throughout, extensive grounds with formal gardens, swimming pool and tennis courts. Mrs. Huddleston spoke about the U.S. position with respect to the embargo. She then invited comments from other ambassadors. The Dutch ambassador was fun, outspoken and direct, "I will come right out and say it; you should recognize Cuba." Vicki Huddleston has a beautiful Afghan named "Havana" who was introduced to us. Attached you will find a humorous LA Times article about the canine's participation in a Cuban dog show. Following our Embassy luncheon, we drove through sugar cane fields and ranching country, adjacent to the Bay of Pigs, en route to Cienfuegos, a town with a fine port developed and used to ship mostly sugar. We spent the night in Cienfuegos. Day Seven We toured Cienfuegos this morning - a town that developed more modern ways than Havana in the early days, as evidenced by an opera house and gas streetlights. Our last stop was Trinidad, much unchanged since colonial times, a designated World Site by UNESCO. It has steep, cobblestone streets, thick-walled houses painted different colors with tile roofs. Women do handiwork - pulled thread linens and crocheted baby clothes. Our last night in Cuba was spent in the luxury of the new resort hotel, Las Brises - on the waterfront. The drinks were free so we sampled different rum drinks -? a natural sideline of the sugar business. Day Eight We traveled back to Havana where we stopped to view the steps of one campus of the University of Havana and prepare for our return trip home. Back to top FINAL IMPRESSIONS Havana is a city that provokes powerful reactions. Either you fall in love with it or you are left totally unmoved. If you fall under its spell, the vibrant atmosphere and friendly people, streets lined with centuries of enduring architecture, strike you. For others, the problems that Cubans have to overcome on a daily basis—such as poor transportation, often below-par food, power cuts, lack of reliable information—are overwhelming and frustrating, despite the Cuban tenacity to cope with hardship. There are a wealth of simple pleasures to be enjoyed—walking the streets, driving along the Malecon, the bars and music, markets, buildings and architecture, museums—many of which our members explored in their free time. The pressing question is how long Castro will live and what will happen when he is gone. He is 76 and going strong. Our advisors at the American Embassy did not want to hazard a guess except that there will be turmoil and change. Cuba is in the closing years of a social experiment—whether it has been successful or a failure, history will decide. Cuba is surviving. It is difficult to see how she poses any threat to the U.S. adequate to justify the embargo. Ironically the embargo may protect Cuba against the flood of divers, fast food establishments, travelers and potential investors (legal and illegal) who will deluge Cuba when it is lifted. We all agree that AWIU should maintain contact with the women of Cuba. We could offer some real help to the emerging women as they take their place in the international scene. |
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